The Black and White Setup I Used in Manchester

If you’ve come from my Manchester black and white blog, this is the exact Fujifilm recipe I used for those images.

I don’t shoot black and white often, but when I do, this is the recipe I reach for. It gives strong contrast, deep shadows and noticeable grain. It feels closer to film than a clean digital conversion, and it works especially well in grey, overcast conditions.


Manchester suited it perfectly. Rain, steam, concrete, umbrellas, dark coats. I didn’t want soft tones. I wanted depth and grit. This recipe delivers that without needing much editing afterwards.


I originally took this from Fuji X Weekly a while back, and I’ve kept it saved on my camera ever since.


Here are the exact settings.

Kodak T-Max P3200 — The Fujifilm Black and White Recipe I Use. Callum Ecobichon
Kodak T-Max P3200 — The Fujifilm Black and White Recipe I Use. Callum Ecobichon
Kodak T-Max P3200 — The Fujifilm Black and White Recipe I Use. Callum Ecobichon

Kodak T-Max P3200 Inspired Recipe


Film Simulation: Acros (you can also try Acros+Y, Acros+R or Acros+G depending on contrast preference)

Monochromatic Color (Toning): WC -1 & MG -1

Grain Effect: Strong, Large

Color Chrome Effect: Off

Color Chrome FX Blue: Off

White Balance: 5500K, +4 Red & +7 Blue

Dynamic Range: DR400

Highlight: +1

Shadow: +3

Sharpness: +2

High ISO NR: -4

Clarity: +1

ISO: Up to ISO 12 800

Exposure Compensation: Typically 0 to +2/3

Kodak T-Max P3200 — The Fujifilm Black and White Recipe I Use. Callum Ecobichon

Why I Like This Recipe


There are three things that make this work for me.


1. The Shadow +3 setting

This gives real depth. Blacks feel intentional. It separates subjects in busy street scenes and adds weight to the frame.


2. The grain

Strong and large might sound excessive, but in dull light it adds character. It stops the image feeling too digital.


3. Shooting in black and white live

Seeing the world in monochrome through the viewfinder changes how you compose. You stop thinking about colour and start thinking about light, shape and contrast.


That shift alone makes it worth using a dedicated recipe rather than converting later.



If you try this Fujifilm Kodak T-Max P3200 recipe, experiment with exposure slightly. I often push it a touch brighter to protect skin tones while keeping strong shadows.


It works well for:


  • Street photography
  • Overcast days
  • Winter scenes
  • Low light environments
  • High contrast urban settings



Save it to your camera and test it somewhere grey. That’s where it really shines.

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